It is sometimes tempting to think of a brief history of favor in terms of distinct units of decades, with a new era being ushered in with the drop of the ball in Times Square on New Years day of the very first year of the new decade. However, this thinking has a tendency to cloud the broad sweep of history, that takes shape because it unfolds from the trends and events of the past.
No discussion around the globe of fashion in the 1950’s would be complete without examining the profound impact The second world war had on the industry. Europe and North America had traditionally looked to Paris, the international capitol of fashion, for stylistic inspiration and guidance within this realm but with the German invasion of Paris, this link was severed and designers and manufacturers within the world were forced to rely on domestic talent.
There was additionally a shortage of fabrics and trimmings used in clothing throughout the war, and rationing systems that regulated the quantity of clothing, that could be purchased, were introduced in countries like Britain. This climate caused wartime fashion to become very functional, almost militaristic in appearance. The normal wartime outfit in great britan, for instance, was the tailored suit with squared off shoulders, tapered waist and just-below-the-knee length skirt. Shoes and bags, and accessories were also functional, except for hats. The materials to make hats weren't rationed so large, bold designs in hats were characteristic. But generally speaking, the plethora of garments being produced was extremely limited. Little elegant cocktail dress had been produced, for example, because textiles like silk were required to make parachutes. There was additionally a ban about the production of hosiery for the similar reason. Hosiery had been made from silk, as nylon wasn't yet accessible.
As British and American designers were not eclipsed by Parisian designers during the war, they emerged within the post war era with a much sharper profile within the world of fashion. Both countries had made significant progress in mass-market clothing production, also called “ready-to-wear” clothing, simply due to having to produce massive amounts of uniforms during the war.
After the war, women returned towards the home and also to a less active role in society. Femininity returned towards the fashion styles of the day. No more curtailed by the rationing of textiles and restrictions in buying, they wanted clothing with reams of material. Even make-up was heavy – many women went through their day having a full painted face contend with dark eye liner, colored eye shadow, mascara, rouge, to dark red lipstick. The cosmetics and fragrance industries boomed. Women reveled in their use of items that had been of short supply during the war, and perfect grooming was essential.
The silhouette of the day in the early to mid 1950’s leaned toward the formal, and the tailored. Women desired to promote themselves as mature, elegant, and sophisticated. It was important to appear 'every inch the lady' from head to toe, and this was the female cultural norm which was conditioned in every girl from a very young age from her authority figures in addition to the movies she saw in the theater on Saturday night. The adventurous world of high fashion popularized about the runways and catwalks from the Paris fashion shows remained formal.
Watching the popular Hollywood “pictures” during the day can offer an enjoyable study in 1950’s fashion styles. My favorite film from the era is “How you can Marry a Millionaire” featuring sex siren, Marilyn Monroe, Lauren Bacall, and Betty Grable. It's a visual feast of 1950’s fashion to not be missed! And also the image of female great thing about your day was a curvy one with shapely hips and a prominent bust, even though it was important that a women’s waist be small. Many women wore girdles, waist cinchers and shapers underneath their clothing to do this desired image. Women that collect vintage clothing today will verify the truth that the waist dimensions of vintage dresses and skirts feel abnormally small in comparison with that of the hips and bust.
Tailored suits, dresses with bolero jackets, twin sets, and shirt waisted dresses with full pleated swing skirts were worn throughout the day, and full-length cocktail gowns with elbow length opera gloves and bold statement jewelry were worn for cocktail dress. The 1950’s were a time period of practiced etiquette – a time when every occasion demanded a studied focus on clothes and accessories. For example, the way you dressed when you visited have lunch using the ladies was diverse from how you dressed when you went food shopping or attended your children’s school functions. A popular style for the 1950’s woman who desired to appear provocative was the wiggle dress or tight-fitting, high-waisted pencil skirt.
The 50’s were time of prosperity. Families had more disposable income and, let’s remember, plenty of children! They don’t refer to it as the baby boom era for nothing. As a result, a fresh market emerged serving young adults. Many teenagers needed more relaxed clothing styles than those of their parents. Teenage girls favored tight sweaters and cardigans worn over pointy “bullet bras”, paired with full circle skirts with stiff nylon petticoats underneath for fullness. Teenagers across the world were dancing towards the new American rock-n-roll music and also the full skirt and petticoat combination made for quite a show as you spun around about the party area. Poodle skirts were worn with monochrome saddle shoes at sock hops where teenagers danced to Elvis Presley. Many experts agree it was in the 1950’s that the fashion and music industries became forever linked.
Tight jeans and pants were a popular fifties clothing style with both teenage girls and boys. Pedal pushers became e an extremely trendy type of pants for girls. “Good girls”, Annette Funicello and Doris Day popularized this fashion look for young girls within the 50’s. The “greaser look” for teenagers, also unique towards the 1950’s, was distinguished by the white tee shirt and black motorcycle jacket, greased back hair and sideburns, popularized by James Dean and Marlon Brando.
From the mid 1950’s, tailored suits from Italian designers, in particular, started to represent “the best in modernity” for the modern 50’s gent. Italian clothing had been imported towards the United States and Britain in greater quantities than in the past. Even domestic menswear manufacturers and tailors were advertising their single-breasted suits with tapered trouser pants to be made “in the Italian” style. Striped ties were popular for males, and also the romance with Italian menswear didn’t end there, Italian leather shoes with pointed toes were extremely in vogue on the planet of 50’s men’s fashion.
Toward the finish of the decade, designers began to present less structured clothing. They began rebelling against the tight-waisted, tight-fitting, full-skirted types of the post-war years. Chanel’s relaxed sweater suit designs for women were gaining in popularity. Fashion was trending toward more comfort and wear ability. The sack dress from the late 1950’s was the precursor with a of the shift dresses that became popular in the 60’s when hemlines went shockingly up! That, however, is another story. I, for one, will be a fan of 1950’s clothing. It had been a decade of vibrant fashion activity that celebrated the best qualities from the traditional gender roles, including all things feminine for women along with a strong masculine archetype for men.
Article writer: Tatyana Cathcart owns Babygirl Boutique, an online store in Portland, Oregon. Her boutique has a variety of vintage reproduction, retro inspired, indie, and alternative labels including Stop Staring Clothing, Paper Doll Productions, Hell’s Belles Handbags, Sweet Romance Jewelry, Anne Koplik Designs, Retro Shoes, as well as an range of sexy pinup style lingerie for any duration of the entire year! Local pickup available. Free freight.
